Our fascination with Alaska and our desire to visit started over thirty years ago, when we were deciding where to take a honeymoon. Our limited budget quickly squelched this idea and we honeymooned instead in Niagara Falls and Toronto, Canada.
Over the years our desire never dwindled. Finally, we would would get to Alaska and our RV, Eagle View would take us there.
Originally we had discussed catching a ferry from Vancouver, Canada and going up the inside passage. However the cost of our 24 foot RV proved to be cost prohibitive. After much hemming and hawing, we decided we would limit our visit to driving to the western parts of Alaska that were accessible by driving through British Columbia.
We soon learned that there are essentially three routes in which to drive into the state of Alaska.
We started by heading to the minuscule town of Hyder, Alaska
Hyder can only be accessed through the similarly small, quaint town of Stewart, British Columbia.
The road to this remote region was in relatively good condition.
Other than an occasional, motorcycle, bicyclist,
logging trucks
or fellow RVer
the road was simultaneously lonely, yet serene
The mountain pass to Stewart was breathtaking, with numerous waterfalls cascading down the lush green mountainside.
We were grateful for the free albeit slow wifi at the visitor center. There is a splendid boardwalk that provides opportunity for viewing flora and wildlife and the harbor boats and sea planes in the distance.
A visit to the toaster museum in the village of Stewart is memorable.
We crossed the border, into Hyder, Alaska,
It was too early in the season for salmon to be swimming upstream to spawn, thus, there were no bears at the bear boardwalk. We continued to drive 20 Kilometer up the dusty, narrow, curvy road to Salmon Glacier. It was a rough drive and a nail biter of a drive at times.
We were rewarded when we reached the summit. This by far, was the most impressive glacier we had the privilege of drinking in with our eyes.
For some reason, the flys were particularly bothersome, so we elected to limit the time we were exposed to their petty bothersome ways. When we descended to the valley below, we secured a cozy camp-sight that was walking distance to the friendly little village of Stewart, BC.
We were delighted to discover our new friends from New Zealand were camping at the same campground so they joined us for French toast the next morning. Little did we know that when we parted ways,… that our paths would cross again.. more about that in another post.
The return drive through the pass was an equal delight; rugged, raging rivers,
lush evergreens, prolific pink roadside fireweed
Even though it was a little less climactic than Salmon Glacier, the impressive Bear Glacier was stunning none the less.
Although, it was a hard toss up, between Skagway or Haines, we committed ourselves to driving the Stewart-Cassiar route to Haines, Alaska.
One of the things that influenced our travel decisions were the reports of wildfires and road closures.
We average about 5 hours of driving a day. Rob does ALL of the driving. Fuel is more costly per liter in the provinces and territories so we were grateful for averaging 18 miles with our diesel engine.
We received a warm welcome from the friendly folks in the Yukon Territory at Watson Lake.
Yukon Territory’s capital city of Whitehorse seemed small compared to other capital cities. (Population approximately 26,000). However, several shopping choices were available for stocking up on necessities.
We paid eight dollars for long hot showers at the recreation center, and left with an armload of suggestions of places to visit and a “passport book” to get stamped at participating locations.
Before departing, we left evidence of our travels in the world famous sign post at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory
After a visit to the S.S. Klondike steamship, in the Yukon’s capital city of Whitehorse
and Two loads of clean laundry,
we departed for Haines Junction, BC.
Everything is subject to change.
We took advantage of extended daylight hours at this latitude and decided to drive all the way to Haines, Alaska. We dodged hitting our first bull moose shortly after crossing into the states.
We arrived 10:30 pm but with a one hour time zone difference, it was only 9:30 pm. What the campground lacks in ambiance, it makes up for in friendly staff and fellow campers. The showers are clean and private. There is a massive community fire pit in the center of the gravel parking lot that serves as a welcoming gathering spot for the campground.
Providence was in our favor. There were two vacancies on the Fjord Express day trip that could accommodate us. Approximately 90 minute boat ride to meet a bus that took us into Juneau, Alaska.
Here we ate lunch with a view of seaplanes and cruise ships in the harbor.
After Linda and Rob shared a crepe from a food truck alley, they felt like they were on an episode of the amazing race as they explored the capital city and tried to find the elusive second floor pin store.
A visit to the public library made a great pit stop for using the bathroom and logging in to wifi.
The salmon cakes were one of the tastiest we had ever had.
We boarded the bus to visit the fish hatchery where the salmon had just started to return to spawning … it was mesmerizing to watch this wonder of nature.
Once we returned to the catamaran, the overcast day had brightened and warmed significantly. The knowledgeable Skipper was skillful at maneuvering through waters where we were able to see, perched eagles, whales spouting, seals and sea lions lounging along rocky shoreline.
While aboard, we were served delectable salmon chowder with crusty bread and a massive cookie for dessert.
Twelve hours later, we returned to our campground and joined other campers around the community campfire to revel in the days adventures.
The next day, we wandered about the small, quaint town of Haines, Alaska.
Cell service is spotty in these remote regions, so we checked into the library to access wifi so we could pay some bills online.
We picked up a few groceries at the IGA in town. Choices were limited and prices were inflated above what we are used to paying.
However, we quickly discovered that this small harbor town with its strong artesian community, is very casual, and there is a relaxed start of the business hours.
We lunched at the campground, where we had a view of cruise ships headed to and from Skagway, Alaska and an abundance of Eagles to keep Rob thoroughly delighted.
We took a drive to an abandoned Disney movie set where they filmed Jack London’s White Fang.
And we also discovered some more friendly artisan folks working on their respective crafts.
This brief encounter with these two remote locations in the massive state of Alaska, the breathtaking scenery, and the friendly folks we encountered, has us wanting to return in the future to do more exploring.
LEAVING FOOTPRINTS & TAKING PICTURES 